The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Spaces
Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel train pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Nearby, a police siren pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds form.
This is perhaps the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with plump mauve berries on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.
"I've noticed individuals hiding illegal substances or other items in those bushes," says the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He has pulled together a loose collective of growers who make wine from four hidden city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and community plots throughout Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to possess an official name yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Wine Gardens Around the World
To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which features more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of the French capital's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and over three thousand grapevines overlooking and within Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has discovered them all over the globe, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens help urban areas stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. These spaces protect open space from development by establishing permanent, productive agricultural units within urban environments," explains the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a result of the earth the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the people who care for the fruit. "Each vintage represents the beauty, local spirit, environment and heritage of a city," adds the spokesperson.
Mystery Eastern European Grapes
Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he cultivated from a cutting abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. Should the rain comes, then the birds may take advantage to feast again. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he comments, as he removes damaged and mouldy berries from the shimmering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Activities Across the City
The other members of the group are also taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking the city's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of wine from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 plants. "I adore the smell of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a container of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has already survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from the soil."
Sloping Vineyards and Natural Winemaking
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established more than one hundred fifty vines situated on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."
Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is picking clusters of deep violet dark berries from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce interesting, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a glass in the growing number of establishments specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly create good, natural wine," she states. "It's very on trend, but really it's reviving an traditional method of producing wine."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, the various natural microorganisms come off the skins into the juice," says Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Conditions and Inventive Approaches
A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to establish her vines, has assembled his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who taught at the local university developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a challenge to grow Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental local weather is not the sole challenge faced by winegrowers. Reeve has had to install a barrier on